At one time just about all the serious art galleries in New Orleans were in the French Quarter. Now, most of the art galleries in the French Quarter are not especially serious, although some are, and in fact some are very good. But that is another story (Last month’s, actually).
All this changed between 10 and 15 years ago, as the serious art galleries moved Uptown. The main beneficiary was Magazine Street, itself one of the more curious city sights—highly atmospheric, it evokes sensibilities of Joseph Conrad, Tennessee Williams and Moon Mullins, with touches of the Bowery and Dodge City in the old days, thrown in for good measure.
Rakish, often dilapidated, and always a haven for the unique, antique and unusual, Magazine—deemed by some the “street of dreams” for its richly varied texture—became a primary artery of the local art world, sprouting new galleries as well as transplants like mushrooms after a rain. And while the Warehouse District has in recent years exploded with new galleries and contemporary arts activity, adding new lustre downtown, the Magazine Street galleries remain as strong as ever—stronger actually, as impressive performance has engendered impressive reputations over the years.
The Davis Gallery, at 3964 Magazine Street, is an especially good example of this. One of the first important galleries on Magazine, the Davis has become widely known as one of the finest African art galleries in this country—certainly the leader in this region.
Owner Charles Davis spends part of the year probing the remote zones of the Dark Continent in search of the good stuff, the increasingly elusive primo artifacts. Recent acquisitions from West and Central Africa as well as a variety of other colorful and affordable treasures are currently on view.
Not far away, at 3901 Magazine, is another gallery that is outstanding in the realm of ethnic art. The Carmen Llewellyn Gallery features contemporary and 20th century works from Mexico and Latin America, including many of the best known, most respected Hispanic artists, a number of which are featured this month.
Almost directly across the street, at 3908 Magazine, the Hispanic accent continues to some extent at the Mario Villa Gallery. While this gallery features contemporary New Orleans and American artists, it also showcases a variety of sophisticated postmodem classic furniture with a somewhat tropical flair. These are the creations of sculptor and gallery owner, Mario Villa. Having attained almost instant success since being introduced a few years back, these sleekly functional artworks have been featured in architecture and design magazines and showrooms all over the world.
The Morgan-West Gallery at 3953 Magazine Street, is a contemporary crafts emporium, an informal, almost cozy art space contained in one of those classic Magazine Street frame structures. A variety of works by gallery artists are featured at any given time, and special rotating exhibitions take place during the regular art season.
In terms of contemporary and 20th Century art, the Tilden-Foley Gallery, at 4119 Magazine Street, is certainly one of this city’s major art spaces. In addition to local and regional contemporary art, internationally acclaimed artists with Louisiana roots, for instance Keith Sonnier, Lynda Benglis, Randall Schmit and Walter Anderson, have all been featured in this cavernous art space. Upstairs there is a kind of mezzanine where artworks from the early 20th century and beyond are often featured.
The Carol Robinson Gallery, located at 4537 Magazine, occupies an interesting niche in the local community. Featuring contemporary art by local and regional artists, this gallery offers affordable works, often by emerging talents. Frequently decorative, sometimes entertaining and/or functional, arts and crafts are presented in a pleasantly informal atmosphere.
The Academy Gallery, at 5256 Magazine Street, is actually part of a larger institution, the New Orleans Academy of Fine Arts, itself a serious art school specializing in the time honored practice of realistic technique. The Academy Gallery, however, functions semi-independently, and works on view may or may not be related to the school. In any event, the Academy Gallery is known for representational work, often reflecting the traditional European academic approach to detailed craftsmanship. In this sense, the Academy represents the continuation of a longstanding local tradition.
A gallery that is a regional and national leader as well as inveterate Uptown art space, is A Gallery for Fine Photography, at 5423 Magazine Street, near the intersection with Jefferson Avenue. This largish exhibition space, filled with what amounts to an art history of photography, is the more established companion to a new three-story sister gallery in an old townhouse at 313 Royal Street. Currently featured at the Magazine location is a survey of vintage and 20th century works, as well as a selection of contemporary offerings.
One of the most unusual galleries is also one of the newest—Gallery I/O at 1812 Magazine features unique contemporary crafts in an unusual, innovative space. The gallery is actually the street level of the Thomas Mann jewelry complex, where on the upper levels Mann’s intricate designs are hand fabricated. While some of these designs—featured in high style outlets all over the country—can be seen in the gallery, the space is primarily used for independent rotating exhibitions of artworks and crafts not directly related to the Mann enterprise. The net result is an interesting exhibition facility for contemporary crafts—as well as for the creations of one of America’s most innovative jewelry designers.
Except for the Gallery I/O, located about a mile outside the Central Business District, the other galleries noted in this story are all located between the 3900 and 5400 blocks of Magazine Street, Uptown. While this is several miles from the business district and French Quarter, it is an easy drive by car, and is also accessible via the Magazine Street bus. It can be an interesting journey, with lots of antique and junk stores all along the way. There are numerous cafes and other oases as well, including a quality coffee shop and health food deli in the 5400 and 5500 blocks, respectively.
