If one measures a restaurant’s excellence by how long you need to wait for a table, then Jacques- Imo’s is quite possibly the best restaurant in the city. But if the quality of the food serves as your barometer, Crabby Jack’s is where you will find Chef Jack Leonardi’s best work. Located in the former Louisiana Seafood Exchange on Jefferson Highway, this lunch spot cranks out an extensive list of creative po-boys along with daily plate specials reminiscent of its better-known sister restaurant.
While waiting to order at the counter, you survey the handful of communal tables and barstools, where the plates of stuffed cabbage and étoufée catch your eye. But once your gaze turns upon the menu overhead, which has more names and numbers than an airport arrival board, the craving for a po-boy overwhelms you. Just relax, take a deep breath, and repeat after me: “God, grant me the serenity to accept the po-boys I cannot order.”
The signature debris-style duck po-boy is overloaded with succulent, shredded meat in a flavorful jus. Tender cochon de lait comes cloaked in a tomato-based sauce which could almost be labeled as “barbecue,” but with a flavor distinct enough as to differentiate it from similar sandwiches. The roast beef po-boy is a textbook example of that breed, and the crusty bread of the fried shrimp po-boy strains to contain an overabundance of golden crustaceans. Paneed chicken pounded thin, fried crisp, and double-layered makes that chicken dinner the winner winner.
Sides are sadly an afterthought, with both the fries and rings leaving much to be desired. The latter shed their thick, fried batter far too easily. A surprising “punt” by a kitchen that turns out hot-to-the-bone and crunchy chicken wings, which may be the heir apparent to Al Copeland’s. If necessary, opt for the macaroni and cheese spiced up with jalapeños. Brooks and Helen Gibert came prepared for messy po-boys: “If we weren’t married, we wouldn’t let you take our picture.”
But such shortcomings are easily forgiven considering that the stars of Crabby Jack’s shine so brightly. Plus, the “small” po-boys of 8 inches can satisfy even the hungriest lunchtime appetites for under $10. All the flavor, without the waiting in line. 428 Jefferson Hwy., Jefferson, 833-2722. Lunch Mon-Wed 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Thu-Fri 10:30 a.m.-5 p.m., Sat 10:30 a.m.-4 p.m.
