Which of the dishes on your menu says the most about you?
I would probably say the smoked quail salad. Because I love birds. I like to eat birds, I like to cook birds, and I’m a bone picker so I like to pick them up and eat them with my fingers. The smoked quail salad has been on the menu for a very long time. It’s very textural. It has deep flavors and a lot going on. We marinate the quail and then we cold-smoke them and then I tempura-fry them to order. One quail is cut in half before we fry and then they’re cut in half again, so you get four pieces. It has a bourbon-molasses dressing and spiced pecans, and fresh pears. All the things I like! Pecans, a little spice—and I used to like bourbon!
You don’t drink anymore?
No, I do. But I overdid it with bourbon one time, quite a few years ago. It’s not my drink of choice anymore.