Dining Out: The Green Goddess

Green Goddess

Photo by Caitlyn Ridenour.

To call The Green Goddess funky would be like saying Louis Armstrong just played the trumpet. The restaurant combines the talents of Paul Artigues and Chris DeBarr to create a multi-disciplinary album of cuisines, favors, and techniques. In an area of the city most associated classic Creole cuisine, this French Quarter gem is in a category of its own.

Artigues presides over the brunch/lunch menu, which ranges from shrimp and grits to poached eggs and Creole queso fresco over corn tortillas and fruity, soft pads of cactus. Leftovers from dinner are transformed in delightful ways, such as the bacon and bison meatloaf sandwich tucked between thick slices of bread, slathered in Creole mustard and topped with bacon. When available, the heirloom tomato stuffed with boudin makes a wonderful lunch, with a creamy dressing and peppery arugula surrounding the main attraction.

Chef Chris delivers an evening menu so diverse and eclectic that visitors from all over the globe will feel welcome. Uthappam, an Indian lentil pancake, shares space with duck sausage and mashed sweet potatoes, a.k.a. Louisiana “Bangers and Mash.” Hawaiian-style pork wrapped in banana leaves mix with an Irish cheddar grilled cheese while the table next to you sears beef tri-tip on a brick of Himalayan salt. The place follows no rhyme or reason at dinner, improvising its own cuisine as the audience waits for them to strike a wrong chord.

That rarely happens. But when it does, as in duck-fat-fried potatoes that were a soggy mess, the waiters/cooks are more than willing to swap out the item or take it off the check. Those checks can run a little high, but prices are still lower than other Vieux Carre restaurants that are cooking this innovatively.

  • http://keith.clendaniel.net Keith

    The Green Goddess has some very good ideas for dishes but in my visit I was unable to concentrate on the food due to the environment inside. If you do try this place refuse any tables inside and wait for a table in the street/alley. We were a party of 3 and after waiting about 30 minutes were seated at a 2 top table inside which is very cramped in the first place but in putting a chair in the middle of a walkway made it even more cramped. To make things worse their kitchen does not appear to have a functional vent making the smoke billow out of the doorway into the street. After sitting in the smoke for a bit we requested to move to a table outside after overhearing the waitstaff say that there were two tables outside that were almost done, the response was more-or-less “not a chance” (since he appeared to be the manager there was no point in complaining further). I would have loved to try the bacon sundae which was my reason for trying Green Goddess but our eyes were burning so much from the smoke that we got out of there as quickly as possible. I would give this place 2 thumbs down, not for the food but because of their service.