Which of the dishes on your menu says the most about you?
The whole menu is really a cross section of my life—what I grew up with in Washington DC, Jewish-American, Sunday brunch… Then in Los Angeles—fresh foods, roasted vegetables, tofu sandwiches, things like that. And then coming to New Orleans—Southern shrimp and grits meets catfish, meets boudin, meets andouille sausage… So the menu is a total cross section of my life.
As a kid, during football season people would come over for bagels and lox and my dad would make lox and eggs. That was his dish, and a big deal. A New Yorker might call it a LEO—lox, eggs and onions—but basically it’s seared lox in onions and tomatoes and then you scramble eggs into that and put capers and onions on top. That’s directly what I grew up with, watching my dad cook. So to me, it was really important putting that on my menu because it’s directly from my childhood. Straight from 5-year-old Steve, standing next to his dad.