Dining Out: Mahony’s Po-Boy Shop

Ever have an argument about who makes the best po-boys? Us too. Mahony’s Po-Boy Shop may not currently be the best in town , but with some fine tuning it should certainly be included in the debate.

First, the areas for improvement. Get rid of the arcade game. Pipe in some music. Teach the employees not to look shocked when people show up. Get sandwiches out faster.

Now, the good. The bread offers an ethereal example of the tender crust and cotton-like interior which makes New Orleans-style French bread so desirable. When you start with bread this good, you don’t have far to go to make a great sandwich.

Chef Ben Wicks takes great pride in making everything in house. The roast beef is slowly cooked with thyme, carrots, salt and pepper. One may also detect a hint of crab boil sneaking up the back of the palette like a thief up a fire escape. That’s a quality roast beef po-boy, if slightly different.

The meatball parmesan po-boy arrives with two baseballs of Italian sausage, beef, and seasonings. Surprisingly light, these meatballs are coated in delicious red gravy and topped with slices of fresh of buffalo mozzarella.

The Peacemaker combines bacon, fried oysters, cheddar cheese and a complimentary EKG at nearby Touro Infirmary. Another interesting sandwich layers on big, juicy, perfectly grilled shrimp with the hot crunch of fried green tomatoes and the cool tang of remoulade. The cochon de lait will bring back fond memories of that time it rained at Jazz Fest.

However, the best item on the menu may also be the most overlooked: the onion rings. Thinly shaved onions, coated in seasoned batter, and quickly fried prove to be a wonderful accompaniment to whatever the table orders.

We can’t wait to watch Mahony’s evolve into one of New Orleans’ premier po-boy depots, and think you will enjoy it.

3454 Magazine St.

899-3374

Mon-Sat 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.