When we first visited the reopened and relocated Stanley back in January, we sadly left very disappointed. The lowlights: burned gumbo, raw steak masking as Korean barbecue, and dishes that seemed more theoretical than practical. What a difference a few months make.
If you have eaten at Stella! you know that Scott Boswell’s creativity can be wildly addictive. At Stanley, that imagination is shelved in favor of a homage to the classic diner, with a few twists of course. Sometimes though that suppressed ingenuity peeks out, as in this case with the po-boy sliders. The trifecta of mini po- boys caused outright debate at our table about which one was best. Ultimately, the chicken club with its tangy Caesar pesto dressing and smoked bacon emerged as the winner, but the fried oyster with cole slaw and kimchee with Korean barbecue beef (this time cooked medium) were close behind.
Traditional dishes are treated with reverence. Mahogany-colored gumbo provides a deepand spicy background for perfectly poached oysters, shrimp, andouille and chicken. The reuben benefits from a last minute walk across a well-buttered flat top griddle, while the softshell crab po-boy is spiced up with both spicy remoulade and Creole cocktail sauces. The burger claims to be “world famous,” but your taste buds are best tantalized elsewhere.
Breakfast/brunch dishes comprise half the menu and offer both a sampling of Creole favorites and a handful of originals. The best of the latter is the Breaux Bridge Benedict. Thick rounds of French bread are layered with boudin and American cheese, crowned with a poached egg, and finally bathed ina Creole hollandaise. It is rich, it is hearty, and it is wonderful whether you are taking a lunch break or recovering from a long night. If instead your sweet tooth needs satisfying, look no further than the Bananas Foster French toast with house-made Tahitian vanilla ice cream. Just another stellar dish from a restaurant which continues to improve over time.
547 St Ann St., 587-0093. Daily 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.
