A tartine at Tartine. Photo by Rene Louapre.
While our cholesterol levels know no boundaries, we often must yield to the health consciousness of our loved ones. We both have women in our lives who sometimes are not in the mood for a lunch consisting of a deep-fried foie gras po-boy, cheese fries covered in gravy, and four or five glasses of red wine. Luckily, at Tartine we can still eat well while satisfying our better halves.
Tartine borrows its name from the sandwiches often eaten by the French for breakfast or at lunch. To wit: take a baguette from the local boulangerie, smear it with a decadent spread such as a pate, and eat it open-faced. Simple yet delicious. Should you order the namesake at this bakery off Broadway, be prepared that the sandwich is best described by the Seven Mary Three song, “Cumbersome.”
The eight-inch, baked-in-house baguette is sublime, and has a dense crust that is the opposite of New Orleans style. The classic toppings are pate matched with Dijon mustard and sweet confit of onion, or rillete, which required a sprinkling of salt to punch up the flavor. The open-faced eating technique can result in toppings tumbling onto your plate, but with a little practice or the use of a knife and fork, you will soon enjoy what is a very rich and filling lunch.
A recent soup du jour consisted of a smooth concoction of potato, leek and spinach ladled into a brioche bread bowl. For serving as a containment vessel, the bread flaked apart with delightfully surprising ease. Sandwiches are also available for those who have trouble eating without spilling. Thinly sliced ham is matched with triple cream brie, whose richness is offset by a spicy fig mustard. Both tartines and sandwiches are served alongside housemade pickles and a ramekin of bean salad with black eyed peas, mini-white beans and diced red onion in a vinaigrette.
Seating is available inside under the intoxicating aroma of freshly baked bread or outside on the patio, where a number of fans successfully battle the heat of summer. Dessert is a must, and can be taken on the go by picking up a container of velvety smooth fudge with a background flavor of peanut butter. For those dining in for dessert, a light, deeply chocolaty mousse begs you to run your fingers around the edge of the glass. When we do this, the women in our lives just laugh.
7217 Perrier St.
(504) 866-4860
Tuesday-Saturday, 7 a.m.-3 p.m.
