To borrow from Associate Justice Potter Stewart, a great burger is hard to define, but we know one when we taste it. The Company Burger, the burger emporium that opened a year ago on Freret Street, quickly established itself as the Dirk Diggler of the adult burger craze. Adam Biderman is the obsessive chef-owner of the spot who sees no reason why a burger doesn’t deserve the kitchen’s full and undivided attention.

The meat...