To borrow from Associate Justice Potter Stewart, a great burger is hard to define, but we know one when we taste it. The Company Burger, the burger emporium that opened a year ago on Freret Street, quickly established itself as the Dirk Diggler of the adult burger craze. Adam Biderman is the obsessive chef-owner of the spot who sees no reason why a burger doesn’t deserve the kitchen’s full and undivided attention.
The meat matters, and Biderman crafts his burger with a blend of brisket and chuck from antibiotic-free and hormone-free beef, which is ground in house. Instead of the thick backyard grillers made famous at longstanding burger specialists like Port of Call and Lakeview Harbor, The Company Burger uses a flat top griddle to sear its thin patties to a properly caramelized crust and a juicy center. The landing pad for the burger is a locally baked bun, which is soft but stable, like a pudgy matriarch.
The namesake burger delivers two patties dressed with steam-softened red onion, sweet bread-and-butter pickles, and a couple of slices of American cheese. For your first experience, we recommend a purist’s approach: enjoy your burger simply dressed, as the chef intended it. But it’s hard to resist the self-service mayo bar, which offers a half dozen versions, all made in house. While the bacon mayo is best spread on the burger, the basil mayo makes for an excellent dip for the long, thick, fresh-cut fries.
Rings, tots and sweet potato fries round out the list of regular sides. Seasonal offerings appear every now and then, and the standout among them is the fried okra fingers served with sharp vinegar. Drinks are taken seriously, whether your thirst is quenched by an original cocktail, one of the craft beers served on draft or in a can, or a tall glass of refreshingly tart lemonade.
New Orleans has always lagged a few years behind the rest of the nation in emerging trends, and it’s been no different with the burger revolution. But with national chains poised to descend upon New Orleans proper with gourmet burgers, The Company Burger aims to protect its home field advantage.The Company Burger
Directions: 4600 Freret St.
Hours: Sun-Mon and Wed-Sat, 11a-3p, 5-10p. Closed Tuesdays.
Phone: (504) 267-0320