At Dunbar’s new location inside Loyola’s Broadway Activity Center, you’re not likely to see a meeting of officers from Zulu. And at the original location on Freret, I don’t remember booths wired with Ethernet jacks or law journals stacked next to the trays.It’s strictly cafeteria service now, so the motherly waitresses no longer walk the floor, cajoling guests into a second, or even a third, plate of fried chicken.

One thing hasn’t changed: no one leaves Dunbar’s hungry.

If they priced ...