The seafood joints of Bucktown and its across-the-canal neighbor West End are their own genre. Their hallmark is the overflowing platter of fried or boiled seafood complemented by cold beer in frozen mugs and a healthy dose of familial conviviality. Conventional wisdom would dictate that any newcomer to the neighborhood would fall in place among its peers, but Alison Vega and her husband (and fellow chef) Drew Knoll decided to raise the bar and follow their own...