Paul Cebar drives the streets of Milwaukee, sniffing the night air for funk – real funk.

"That's Jones Island, the waste treatment plant," he says, referring to the bouquet of burning rubber and grinding metal that's come upon us. A few miles down the road, he sniffs out the perfume rising from The Red Star yeast factory. Farther along stands the Miller Beer complex, this brew town's last surviving brewery.

As far as musical funk, Milwaukee has produced quite a grab bag of entertainers ...