"Big Chief wants to see you."

During a recent Sunday practice, an order to summon the visitor was passed through the ranks of the Creole Wild West Mardi Gras Indians -- and then it reached me. I fumbled my way through dancing Indian Spy Boys and Flag Boys, until I entered a corridor of bodies formed down the center of the bar. I turned to face Big Chief Howard Miller and his second line.

"No pictures," said the...