Most of us experienced it after Katrina— that horrible anxiety that comes with not knowing whether you'll ever again be able to sink your teeth into a loaded bahn mi from Dong Phuong (with the mystery pâté and funky mayo-smear that could be good, or bad, or both); devour an entire half (!) of the massive muffuletta from Central Grocery; and why on earth didn't you ever get around to ordering the Oysters Rockefeller at Galatoire's?

Now, now. Good peopl...