Mat and Naddie’s nestles along the levee, just below the waters of the Mississippi. Only blocks from the bustle of Carrollton Avenue, it feels remote, like a roadhouse along a country highway.

The weekday lunch, a post-Katrina addition and the only meal Mat and Naddie’s served for months after reopening, attracts professionals from area offices and universities. The buffet lunch is strictly catering fare, but catering fare done well. The offerings might include salad, sliced ham, a good wi...