Tacos San Miguel barely qualifies as a restaurant. The miniature space in a shiny new strip mall is almost equally split between the kitchen and the cramped dining room. The décor is nothing but a few photos and prints of Mexican Loteria cards. The furniture is merely card tables and folding chairs.

The small kitchen in back, however, cooks with the kind of attention more often found at high-end restaurants. I've seen the staff sorting through heaps of dried peppers to make salsa....