If it wasn’t for the white delivery van parked out front of the old Capt. Sal’s Seafood building on Toledano Street and for the wonderful smell wafting down Washington Avenue out of the locked gate on the other side, you’d never know Bellegarde Bakery was here. This is not a café or a retail store.

This is a production bakery, and Graison Gill is working the ovens. At 8:30 a.m., the baking is almost done for the day, but Gill has had neither coffee nor breakfast yet. He’s running low on wo...